Wandering through a Crane-Filled Wonderland

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Andy Williams may have sung that Christmas is the Hap-Hap-Happiest Time of the Year. But for my money, the Hap-Hap-Happiest Time of the Year is when summer releases its grip of intense heat to let us get out and explore our wonderful desert landscapes;

The Bisit-DeNaZin Wilderness in New Mexico

And when the leaves start turning;

Turning Cottonwoods near the Rio Grande

And best yet, when the Sandhill Cranes return!

Cranes along the Rio Grande

One of our best places to see cranes in Albuquerque is in an unkempt section of the Bosque on the east side of the Rio Grande that is about a half-mile or mile to the south of the Hispanic Cultural Center. For those of you who do not live in New Mexico, the Bosque is a cottonwood forest that stretches along the Rio Grande from well north of Albuquerque to more than 100 miles to the south. It is believed to be the longest cottonwood forest in the world.

As for Sandhill Cranes, they begin drifting into the Rio Grande Valley in early October and will continue to pour in until the end of November. They’ll hang out all along the Rio Grande until the end of January and then start drifting off to points north in February. By the end of the month they’ll be gone.

But while they are here, it is absolutely wonderful to hear their chortle, see them dance in the sand, and watch them fly in a perfect formation. And then see them make a perfect two-point landing in the river shallows. There is isn’t a gymnastic judge anywhere in the world who wouldn’t give them a score of a perfect 10!

You’ll be walking through the Bosque on a casual trail that will pass through various forms of thickets.

You’ll also find side trails and openings that will give you a clear view of the river and the cranes. Keep in mind that every day is different. Some days you’ll be overwhelmed by the number of cranes. On other days there may only be a handful. Some openings will be packed with Cranes while another may be completely empty. In some places, you’ll see Canada Geese in addition to the cranes.

But one thing that you will definitely find are very few, if any, other visitors. For some reason, this is one of the least crowded and most peaceful places that you’ll find. It’s amazing that a city the size of Albuquerque has this hidden corner.

This stretch of the river has a sandy beach that you’ll reach on a side trail.

This very same stretch of the river along the sandy beach was bone dry back in July (2025)!

But you’ll find Cranes at almost all of the openings to the river.

And, You’ll find Canada Geese too!

And oftentimes you’ll see Cranes and Geese together!

But the Main Event will always be the Cranes – especially when they stand on one leg!

As you walk along the trail you’ll see that much of the understory is carpeted with Yerba Mansa. If you come during the summer it will be a sea of white flowers with white cones sticking out of them. If you come when the cranes are around, the Yerba Mansa will be turning brown or will already be brown. Regardless of when you’re there, you’ll find the aroma of Yerba Mansa wonderful. Pick up a leaf, whether it is green or brown, and crush it in your hand. You won’t believe how calming the aroma is!

This Yerba Mansa still has some green. And the aroma is fantastic!

This Yerba Mansa has already turned brown, but if you look closely, you can see that some of the cones from the flowers are still at the end of their stems.

You also can’t help noticing the Jetty Jacks tangled in brush. They were installed decades ago to protect the nearby levee from raging floods. The construction of Cochiti Dam to the north has pretty much tamed the Rio Grande and has turned the Jetty Jacks into historical curiosities.

One of the many Jetty Jacks that you’ll see. Note the Yerba Mansa growing at its base.

A really tangled up Jetty Jack!

As you work your way along the path, it’s worthwhile checking out some of the deadfall. The patterns of decay are intriguing and will make you wonder what type of critters are feasting on it. Because it is a relatively unkempt section of the Bosque, the deadfall will most likely be allowed to return the ground as it sees fit.

You probably will notice small pieces of glass ground into the path as you walk along. The pieces of glass, too, are a result of another historical curiosity. 100 years ago, Albuquerque was a much smaller city, and this part of the Bosque was considered both far enough away and downstream from town to be used as the city’s dump. From sometime in the 1920s to sometime in the 1940s, trash was hauled here and burned. All that remains today are pieces of glass, ceramics, and molten slag (now hardened).

You’ll see that the remaining mound from the dump may be ten feet higher than the nearby river. Today, it is affectionately called “the Glass Garden” and is definitely a sight to see. And if you’re working on a mosaic project, you might even find some pieces of glass that you can use.

The Glass Garden

The Glass Garden seems to spread for at least a quarter of a mile.

And this is what the surface looks like. It’s not a good place to walk your dogs.

As you can see from the photos, the Fall colors in the Bosque are amazing. But don’t despair if you miss out on the colors. When the leaves come off the trees, it now becomes Porcupine Season, and seeing a porcupine nibbling on a branch high up in the tree is definitely a treat. If you see something that looks like a basketball high up in a tree, it’s probably a Porcupine. Again, it’s hit or miss if you’ll see one. On some days, I’ve seen over twelve. On others, it may be one, two, or none. Regardless of how many you see, it’s another dimension to add to your walk through this crane-filled wonderland!

That basketball in the tree is a porcupine.

And if you’re lucky, you might see two in a tree!

If all of this is not enough to get you out exploring. Depending upon the day of the week, the season, and the direction of the breeze, you might pick up the scent of roasting chiles from the nearby Bueno Chile plant.

In short, it’s very hard to go wrong when you start wandering.

13 Comments

  1. I knew about the Bosque there, but I’ve never visited. I live down in Bisbee, where I first saw you at our library (and have followed your wanderings ever since.)
    If you’re ever back in Albuquerque, head south, and visit the Bosque del Apache. You won’t find it empty of people, unfortunately, but cranes and geese hang out there also. The numbers are absolutely astounding!
    Then head back towards Bisbee, where you will find more cranes in the Willcox area and then south of there at my favorite, Whitewater Draw. It’s horrible on weekends, full of people, but much better during the week.
    We get up to 30,000 cranes wintering there!

  2. I enjoyed this, David. I was down there yesterday. The glass graveyard seemed less vibrant than it did a few years ago. But there were cranes and geese on the river and a surprising number of walkers, runners and bikers on the trails.

  3. Hi David!
    I’m trying to figure out how to access the Bosque trails from the paved Riverside Trail (by bike) which is to the east of the canal. Where do you cross over? And I think the area you are describing is north of Rio Bravo, correct? Thanks for the clarification!

    • Yes, this area is north of Rio Bravo. The easiest access is at Bridge. If you’re going under the tunnel on the path at Bridge, go straight ahead (south) on the unpaved trail – it’s right at Bridge. Keep going south. You’ll cross two footbridges. The area described in the blog post is just beyond the second bridge.

  4. Definitely agree that this is the hap-hap-happiest time of the year. When I hear a flock of cranes calling over the house the first time in the season I run outside and cheer.

  5. Yep, south of the NHCC going down stream is a goodie. Thanks for the article David!

  6. Lovely. All of this. I hope to gently visit one day.

  7. Beautifully described and illustrated David. Very enticing- you list so
    Many good reasons to come discover it for myself

  8. I often ride my bike along the Bosque Trail and love this time of year. In addition to seeing cranes, other wildlife, and of course the changing cottonwoods, one of my favorite areas is also near the Hispanic cultural center: the Bueno Chili plant! This time of year the smell is heavenly!

  9. Vivid, serene nature moments! I remember my winter visit there one crisp winter day circa 1995 to see the cranes. Gracias for the memories 🤗.

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