If you have been to Taos, New Mexico, you’ve probably taken a picture of San Francisco de Asis Church. If you haven’t been to the church, it’s only four miles from the center of Taos in the small community of Ranchos de Taos. It is a simple and beautiful building that has been photographed by Ansel Adams and is the subject of several Georgia O’Keefe paintings.
When you approach the church, you’ll be coming in from the back.
If you take a close look at the walls, you’ll see that the adobe is well maintained with fresh straw and mud. If you look closely, you’ll see that some of the straw has sprouted.
This is the church from the front.
No matter where you look, you’ll find an interesting angle and surface.
If you want to expand your adventure, you can check out a natural hot spring by going another three miles. To do this, drive about a half mile south to Llano Quemado road. When you reach the road, turn towards the mountains and drive another two and half miles or so. The road will eventually become unpaved (but still drivable) and you’ll want to stay on Miranda Canyon Road when you reach a junction. When you see a gated dirt road on your right, park your car and walk a little less than a mile to reach Ponce de Leon Springs.
In the early part of the last century the springs were developed into a small resort. Eventually the resort closed and the hot spring pools were dynamited. When I visited the springs nine years ago, the place was trashed and if you jumped into any remaining water you risked cutting your foot on broken glass. The situation was so bad that the spring was removed from the “Jayson Loam Hot Springs Guide” as Not Usable by People.
A little over a year ago, I read in the paper that the conservation trust that owned the spring and surrounding land was transferring the property to Taos Pueblo. As part of the agreement, Taos Pueblo agreed to keep it accessible. I wondered if that was true as many other Pueblos have bought adjacent land and in the process have made it very difficult to access tracts of public land.
I finally took a trip to Taos earlier this week to find out if the hot springs were still accessible.
When you get out of your car, you’ll see this sign. Great news, access is allowed. Thank you. Also it looks like the name Ponce de Leon has been taped over. I wonder if there is a name change afoot.
The walk to the spring is very pleasant.
Your walk will take you across an arroyo. When you get to the other side of the arroyo, you’ll start seeing small ditches with warm water running in them. You’re getting close.
When you see a substantial path going off to the right, follow it. If you look through the brush, you can catch a glimpse of the old pool. But keep on going.
As you keep walking along the path, you’ll catch a glimpse of this this pool.
Walk a little further and you’ll reach this wonderful pool. The water was crystal clear and warm, and the bottom was clean and free of debris. The one person soaking told us that neighbors have been working at keeping the pool pristine. What a great place for a soak.
What a great surprise and great day. Taos Pueblo has been true to their word. The springs are accessible and they have taken wonderful care of the property. We are lucky to have them as stewards. And as for the spring being usable by people, it is!
Since writing this article, I found this article on Hot Springs in New Mexico that you might enjoy! https://www.alltherooms.com/blog/hot-springs-in-new-mexico/
December 23, 2021 at 4:02 pm
This is ASTOUNDING. We were told of this place while hitching in the area when I was a teen around the late 60’s and only a few locals and hippies knew of and revered as a local treasure worth protecting- and BOY- did it live up to my fantasies. It must’ve been Something in it’s heyday, but seeing naked people meditating in the pools, and among the 1st I had seen in the buff, plus the Insane natural beauty of the place made an impression on me in a Big Way. Now I hv finally found the place that I only had scant- but Idyllic- memories of…. Thank you for that!!!! It IS Much like I remembered….and I am Thrilled that is is still Lovef and Protectef! Thanx to my GF Sharon for unearthing this long- loved place & memory for Me! Luv u Hubba!
January 22, 2019 at 9:18 pm
We used to swim soak here every other day 1971 to 1972. Lived in a hoo-gloo north of Talpa. Jesus freaks. NOT Tycum Redfur. It was a nice walk even in winter, never wore shoes. It had been shot up and dynamited a bit even then. You are right it is a very special place – certainly to me the memory all these years later. I moved way north.
Bolder John
October 24, 2017 at 6:09 pm
I’ve been going to the springs for years & have good friends who live in the tiny cul de sac of the springs neighborhood.
It has been cleaned up long before the Taos pueblo gained ownership. However it was deliberately kept a secret so it would not be degraded again.
I am glad the pueblo has ownership – better than another resort opening.
However, the traffic has skyrocketed and with it trash & graffiti & bullet holes in signs. Just today three pairs of boxer shorts & panties lined the area plus beer cans in the trash can. The rules specifically state no alcohol.
The other week two families came with a total of six kids! Screaming & carrying on as kids do: there’s a public pool for that.
The springs are sacred – this should be a tranquil space, nothing above a whisper.
I am sad the most holy spring is fenced off: but now I figure it’s for the best.
I’d really like to see people respect the rules and have some common sense.
Taos pueblo may someday close it & I fear they’ll have good reason.
September 19, 2016 at 3:15 pm
Thanks for the great tip and info. With the help of someone living below the hot springs, we made it there only to find 3 dogs and 2 locals but NOONE else. Nor did we see another soul up there or back. What a way to spend my 62nd birthday!
February 6, 2016 at 2:22 pm
I used to come to these springs back in the 80’s and remember locals got upset and bulldozed dirt into the smaller square soaking pools. (The larger swimming pool was dynamited at the end long ago). Looks like it got flushed out but the pools look much more shallow. They were about 3 feet before. It warms my heart to see that the native peoples took over care of that land. It is a very special place to me. My first time in NM we drove all night coming down from the direction of Raton. We arrived at the springs when it was still dark (after stopping for some food to bring with from Smiths grocery). We hiked up to the pools tired and sore from the drive and were soaking as the sun rose. WOW! I never saw such purples and shades of it. Immediately fell in love with Taos. The old University of NM greenhouse below the springs appears to now be a home on google maps. It was dilapidated when I was there. Seeing the growth around the large pool is astonishing. One could clearly see the entire thing back when. Thanks you Tiwa people. As I remember one being told in Taos, “You have got to take care of the mountain and the mountain will take care of you.”
January 18, 2016 at 1:31 pm
My sister and I went to the springs yesterday (January 17, 2016) and your directions were very helpful. There is a gate across the trail, so you do have to walk from the parking area on Miranda Canyon Road, but it is less than one mile. We had the springs to ourselves and they were very nice but only warm – not hot, so probably better in the spring and fall. Beautiful place, though.
November 29, 2015 at 5:13 pm
Went to the hot springs on Nov. 29, 2015, they gate that runs by the water pipes was locked with what looked like a brand new lock. Have to go in another way… By the way your directions are not clear at all.
March 4, 2015 at 7:40 am
I am thinking of contributing my art teaching skills to the area’s native people and considering buying a house here.
Can I come check out the hot springs?
March 4, 2015 at 8:29 am
The land where the hot springs are located is owned by Taos Pueblo. When I last visited the area the springs were open to visitors. Since the land is privately owned it is subject to closure. With that in mind, it benefits all visitors to respect any posted guidelines. Other than that enjoy your soak.